Best way to add package's models path to GAZEBO_MODEL_PATH in ROS2?

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In ROS1, you could add your package's models path to the GAZEBO_MODEL_PATH in package.xml (e.g. as shown here).

It doesn't seem like the same functionality (provided by gazebo_ros_paths_plugin.cpp) exists in ROS2. So is there a preferred alternative?

I know you can set environment variables using launch substitutions, but this would have to be done for each launch file.

Is there a way to set the environment variable at the package level (or at the workspace level, e.g. when sourcing your setup.bash)? Or would that be bad form?